Problem-Solving

I've decided on a configuration for the back rest of the Heavy Chair. My original thought was to keep it simple and shape it out of one piece of wood. Simplicity occasionally has its complications.

The wood grain that runs top to bottom on my chair would create a weak spot at the point where the seat back leaves the seat support, and it will eventually fail and begin to crack. By using a sliding dove tail joint and turning the grain of the seat back perpendicular to the seat support the weak point is eliminated. It could then expand and contract without compromising the joint.

I'll use a wooden dowel to keep one end to the joint static and let the opposing side travel freely. No glue will be used in the joint except to secure the wooden dowel.

I'm still considering the species of wood for the seat back assembly. I'd like to use something other than walnut as it find its way into most of my projects. You'll know as soon as I decide.

Knock-Knock Joke

Find a vintage door you like. A skinny solid wood door is the best. Ours had slight smoke damage but still has the original copper latch hardware. We found our solid birch door at Build it Green in Queens (www.bignyc.org) for $45.

Compile the correct tools! Several clamps and a circular saw with a sharp blade are vital. In addition, it's easier to clean all of the surfaces with Murphy's Oil Soap prior to construction.

Mark a line where you will cut the door to form its legs. Wood glue and 3-inch screws will fasten it after the two cuts

Use an object with a straight edge to guide the saw cleanly through the door. Make sure the circular saw is set to a 45-degree angle.


You can use a utility knife to clean up any splinters.

Pre-drill holes to accept the 3-inch screws, two on each leg. Don't forget to use ample wood glue in the joints.


Use a good wipe-on wood preserver.

Add some bespoke magazine carts (two square pieces of Baltic birch, 8 casters and 2 cabinet pulls) and voila.

CNC, Bends and Flame Cuts

For the metal elements of the Heavy Chair, I created a CAD drawing. This rendering tells the CNC machine exactly where to cut the metal to produce my desired shape. The main body will receive two bends. The bend at the front will be 87 degrees, and the rear bend will be 93 degrees. The first drawing shown here incorporates the measurements and a layout to help the machinist understand how the piece will assemble. The second drawing is specifically created for the CNC router.


The machine will cut out four small pieces and two horseshoe-shaped pieces. These elements, together, will become the structure that hold the wooden uprights. First, I'll TIG-weld the pieces into place and grind flat the joints. Finally, I'll blacken the exposed steel.


After witnessing a process called flame-cutting, I've decided that it would add some subtle interest. I'll leave the sides of the chair slightly long from the CNC-machining and then flame-cut the piece to width by hand. The process leaves what look like perpendicular saw marks in the metal. Flame-cutting the entire surface area would be too much, but doing just the sides makes it quietly textural.


Finding a solution to the final shape of the chair back has been challenging. My intuition is to leave it flat and simple. I may go that direction, but I've sketched some alternative ideas that I'll show in my next entry.